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The only metal guide you need.

Our clear recommendation on what metals to pick for your design and why.

There's only two decisons when choosing the right metal.

Nearly every engagement ring here is made in gold or platinum. Within that, there are really only two decisions to make. 

1. What colour you like
2. How pure that metal is

Together, colour and purity is called an 'alloy', the specific recipe of metals the ring is made from. For example, 18k (purity) yellow (colour) gold (metal type)

Some designs work better in specific alloys, and where that's the case the website only offers the options that suit the design.

If you're working with the team directly as part of the bespoke or customise pathways, they'll guide that conversation in the process. It's not something you need to solve before talking to anyone.

Straightforward recommendation.

The rest of the page goes into explaining the recommendation, here it is upfront and easy if you’re just looking for an answer. 

The best option.

If you like yellow or rose go for 18k yellow gold or 18k rose gold.
If you prefer white, go for platinum.

If you want to reduce price.

If you want to reduce price, lowering metal purity is the first lever you should pull. Moving from 18k to 14k, or from platinum to 14k white gold, has less of a trade-off than choosing a smaller stone or a different stone type.

For a specific design on the website, you can change the metal type to see the impact on price. 

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Decision 1 — Colour

If you're unsure on colour, the best thing to do is try them on against your skin in person. Most people have a good sense of what suits them and what they prefer.

If you're choosing for your partner and don't have guidance from them, look at what jewellery they already wear. From experience, don't pick rose gold for a partner who hasn't explicitly told you they want it. People tend to either really love rose gold or really dislike it.

Outside of personal preference, the general guide is that cooler skin tones tend to suit white metals and warmer skin tones tend to suit yellow. Neutral skin suits all three. It's a useful starting point, but trying them on tells you more in five minutes than any rule will.

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Yellow

Available as 18k, 14k or 9k yellow gold.

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White

Available as 18k, 14k or 9k white gold, or platinum.

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Rose

Available as 18k or 14k rose gold.

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Two Tone

If you want a white basket and a yellow or rose band.

Decision 2 — Purity

A quick note on spelling. Karat (k) and carat (ct) are pronounced the same and easily confused. To keep things clear on this page: karat refers to gold purity, carat refers to the weight of a stone.

Pure gold is 24 karat. It's how it comes out of the ground. The problem is that pure gold is soft, soft enough to bend or scratch easily, which makes it unsuitable where jewellery has stones in it and is meant to be worn every day, like engagement rings.

So gold gets mixed with other metals to give it strength. The karat number tells you how much of the final alloy is actually gold: eighteen parts in twenty-four for 18k, fourteen for 14k, nine for 9k. The remainder is other metals, usually some combination of silver, copper, and palladium, chosen depending on the colour the alloy is meant to be. These ratios have been refined over many years and have become industry standard.

How to pick the right alloy.

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Understanding the trade-offs.

In the video below from left to right: 9k, 14k and 18k yellow gold.

Go with 18k if the budget allows for it.

For yellow and rose, 18k is what we recommend first, and the default option for high quality fine jewellery in New Zealand, Australia and most of Europe.

Jewellers love working with it and it has a rich golden colour. Due to its malleability, getting a nice, even polish is much easier, while still having enough durability to hold its shape and wear well over time. 18k also casts really well so it's well suited for finer details.

18k also has an heirloom quality and weight to it that most people love.

Move to 14k if the budget is becoming a constraint.

14k is the default option in the US. It has almost all the benefits of 18k (except in designs where achieving very fine detail is key), with the only trade-off being that it's a touch 'cooler' toned than 18k. Most people wouldn't be able to pick it even side by side, and some people prefer this cooler tone. You can see examples further down the page.

Choosing 14k as a way to get more of the budget into the parts of the ring that are visible, like stone size or a wider band, it's a reasonable thing to do. Shifting down to 14k is the first thing we tell people to do to reduce cost.

If you need to stretch further opt for 9k.

With more metal in the alloy that isn't gold, the metal itself behaves differently. It's harder, which is sometimes described as a good thing, but it's also more brittle. In a ring with prongs holding a stone, or in any setting with finer detail, that brittleness becomes a real consideration over the years it's worn.

For that reason, 9k is offered for simpler settings: plain bands, solid designs without fine detail. Where the design suits it, it's a way to keep a piece in gold without stretching further than the budget allows.

Don't use 18k white, use platinum.

For a white ring, platinum is what we recommend first.

In the video below from left to right: 9k, 14k, 18k white gold and platinum.

Platinum is naturally white. White gold (18k, 14k, or 9k) naturally has a slightly yellow-beige tone, which is why it's plated in rhodium (a member of the platinum family) for a bright white finish. The plating wears off with daily wear and needs to be replated. We use a palladium-based white gold alloy rather than the more common nickel-based one. Palladium gives it a naturally whiter starting point, which means the rhodium plating doesn't have to work as hard, and you can go longer between re-plating. It also avoids the skin reactions that the nickel version can cause. Platinum, by contrast, is naturally white, so there's no replating to maintain.

White gold used to be lower cost, not anymore. White gold was originally used as a more cost-effective way to get a white ring without paying a premium for platinum, and for a long time that was the case. In recent years gold prices have climbed and platinum has stabilised, and 18k white gold is now often the more expensive of the two. So the original argument for choosing white gold over platinum at the high end has largely gone away, making platinum the obvious choice.

Platinum wears better than gold. When the surface picks up scratches, as any metal will over years of wear, platinum moves rather than wears away. So instead of thinning out, a platinum ring develops a soft, even patina.

18k white gold is available, but it's not what we'd recommend. Platinum is the better choice if the budget allows for it. Naturally white and doesn't require on-going plating.

Where white gold makes sense is at 14k and 9k. That's where it does the job it was designed for, which is a more accessible route into a white-metal ring.

Durability isn't what you think it is.

When people ask about durability in metals, what they usually mean is "which one resists scratches the best." That's a fair question, but it's not the whole picture, and answering only that question can lead to the wrong call.

Two properties matter, and they're not the same thing.

Hardness

Hardness is how well a metal resists scratches. The harder the metal, the less likely it is to pick up surface marks from everyday contact. Lower karat golds are slightly harder than higher karat ones, because more of the alloy is made up of metals that are stronger than gold.

Malleability

Malleability is how well a metal bends and absorbs force without breaking.

A malleable metal moves when it's knocked. A less malleable metal resists the knock, which sounds good in theory, but the trade-off is that when force is applied past what the metal can resist, it cracks or breaks rather than bending. For a ring with prongs holding a stone, malleability matters more than hardness, because a prong bends, the stone can become loose, but if it breaks the stone can fall out.

Higher karat golds are more malleable than lower karat ones. Platinum is the most malleable of the lot, which is part of why it holds stones so well over decades of wear.

So when people say a metal is "more durable," what they often mean is "harder." That's not wrong, but it's only half the answer. The durability of a finished ring depends on both properties working together, and which one matters more depends on the design.

Which is why durability isn't really a karat decision.

Like everything, it's a design decision.

When we design something for the website and we know a specific metal type won't work, it won't be selectable.

If you're working with us through the bespoke or customise pathways, we'll modify a design to work within whichever metal types are within budget.

What that means for you is that you don't need to optimise or worry about durability when choosing between karats. That decision has already been made by the design. 

Your choice is about colour, price, and how the finished ring feels.

A note on contemporary metals.

Beyond gold and platinum, there are a few contemporary metals we offer that are worth knowing about. They sit outside the precious metals conversation and they're not part of the engagement ring offering, but they can be a good choice for plain wedding bands.

The three we work with are titanium, platinum 600, and black zirconium.

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Titanium

Light, hard-wearing, and naturally a cool grey. It's significantly lighter on the hand than gold or platinum, and the most accessible of the metal options for a plain band. A practical, durable choice for someone who wants a wedding ring they can wear and forget about.

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Platinum 600

This is platinum alloyed with other metals so it's 60% platinum and 40% other metals. Traditional platinum is 95% platinum.

The easiest way to think about it is as the platinum equivalent of 14k gold. Still platinum and still naturally white but with a slightly grey tone. A way to get the look and feel of a platinum band without the cost of the traditional alloy

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Black zirconium

Heat-treated to create a deep, near-black finish that holds well over time. The colour is the main reason people choose it. The finish wears slowly with daily contact, which gives the band character over years.

This is our recommendation if you are after a black band.

All three are durable and sit at more accessible price points than gold or traditional platinum. The trade-off is that they aren't workable in the same way precious metals are. They can't be resized in the traditional sense, and they don't hold stones the way a precious metal setting does. That's why they're offered for plain bands only.

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Platinum 600 slightly more grey tone on the left compared to traditional platinum 950 on the right which appears whiter.

If you need to change the size down the line, we can remake the ring in the new size. You'd pay the difference in metal weight plus shipping, which is usually a fraction of the original cost.

If a contemporary metal is the right choice for the band you're after, the team will guide that conversation as part of the design process. You can also see how these metals look and price in the wedding band collection.

FAQs

A gold shank with a platinum basket is the most common way of doing this, often done to keep a colourless diamond looking icy white. Designs on our website offer this where it makes sense.

No. The high copper content in 9k rose makes the metal more prone to tarnishing over time, and it's not a trade-off we're comfortable making for a piece worn for decades. Rose is available in 18k and 14k.

A warm, soft champagne tone — not quite yellow, not quite white. Some people choose this finish deliberately, particularly for designs where a warmer, softer-toned metal works better than the bright white that rhodium plating produces.

For most people, every two to three years, depending on how the ring is worn. A ring worn through heavy daily contact will need re-plating more often than one worn alongside other rings or kept off during hands-on work. Re-plating is a paid service and isn't part of the standard care plan.

We can re-plate any ring we've made for you. There's a cost associated with this, which varies depending on the surface area being replated.

Yes. Most designs in the collection can be made in any of the available metals for that design, and the configurator on the product page lets you switch between them and see how the price changes. If a metal isn't selectable for a particular design, it's because the design needs something else for it to hold up well. If you want a metal that isn't an option on the website, raise it at the consult and the team will let you know if it's possible.

22k has cultural and sentimental value in many traditions, particularly across South Asia and the Middle East. It's also softer than 18k, which makes it unsuitable for holding stones securely over a lifetime of daily wear in jewellery like rings. It's fine for low-impact pieces like necklaces. For rings with stones, 18k is the highest karat that works. For plain bands without stones, 22k is a fine choice if it's the tradition you're working within. We can do this for you. 

Platinum and titanium are both hypoallergenic and safe for sensitive skin. Our white gold alloys  palladium rather than nickel, which means even white gold doesn't carry the reaction risk it does at most jewellers. Some people can react to the copper used in 9k, 14k and 18k gold alloys, though this is very uncommon. If you have a known metal allergy, raise it at the consult and the team can confirm what's safe for the design you're considering.

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The metals decision is easier to make in person than on a page.

See the different metals side by side, try them on against your skin, and talk through which one suits the design you have in mind.